Author Topic: Blerk's Progress  (Read 48313 times)

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Offline Gambo

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #530 on: October 05, 2017, 08:29:36 PM »
Plenty of advice already given, but I'll stick in my two pen'orth worth........

Best to try to get a rifle shooting near to zero with both the turrets wound halfway through their complete range of movements. E.G, if the turret moves 5 rotations fully out to fully in, then set it at 2.5 rotations.

When that is done, if the rifle is still shooting (some 14 inches!) HIGH at 30 yards, then it's the FRONT mount that needs to be shimmed, NOT the rear.................The rear mount needs to be shimmed when the rifle shoots low at longer range.

If the L to R POI is way wide with the turrets centered, then check that the mounts are allowing the scope be held perfectly centrally above the barrel, and not off to one side. If that's the case, then another brand/model of mounts should be considered if they can't be remedied by adjusting the sideplates.

IIRC, your new rifle doesn't have a front barrel (sometimes called an 8) clamp, so there's no option for you to check/adjust that unfortunately.

Offline airgunnut

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #531 on: October 05, 2017, 09:19:47 PM »
When that is done, if the rifle is still shooting (some 14 inches!) HIGH at 30 yards, then it's the FRONT mount that needs to be shimmed, NOT the rear.................The rear mount needs to be shimmed when the rifle shoots low at longer range.


give me a brake, it's been over 5 years since I last scoped a rifle and ive taken hell of a lot of pain killers since, so I might have got a few things mixed up :-[ :'(
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Offline IceBlerk

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #532 on: October 06, 2017, 07:48:43 AM »
Great advice from you folk. Thanks.

As it happens, I went to the range last night before I had a chance to read any of it and managed to zero. I'm pretty sure that removing and re-fitting my scope the other night fixed the problem, but I don't know how/why.

I don't think (but can't be certain) that I have a front/rear mount which could have been on the wrong way round. Is there a way to determine this?

But ........... referring to the many wise words:

I would centralise the scope (set turrets to the middle)

How do I know which position is the central one? My turrets spin and spin and spin.............

Do I find the first end point, spin and count the turns until I find the second and then spin back for half the number of turns?

To check a scope, get a srtong cardboard box that your scope will rest on, cut 2 "v" one on each side of the box to rest the scope in, with a centralised scope in the 2 v's find a target on a wall or something (make sure the box and scope do not move) on the turrets go 20 clicks to the right then 20 down, now 20 left, then 20 up, if the scope is ok you should find that your back to the starting point.

That sounds like a brilliant idea. Simple but brilliant. Applause!

...... I'll stick in my two pen'orth worth........

Big spender!

Best to try to get a rifle shooting near to zero with both the turrets wound halfway through their complete range of movements. E.G, if the turret moves 5 rotations fully out to fully in, then set it at 2.5 rotations.

There you go, I knew the answer would be spin, count, spin back halfway.

When that is done, if the rifle is still shooting (some 14 inches!) HIGH at 30 yards, then it's the FRONT mount that needs to be shimmed, NOT the rear.................The rear mount needs to be shimmed when the rifle shoots low at longer range.

If the L to R POI is way wide with the turrets centered, then check that the mounts are allowing the scope be held perfectly centrally above the barrel, and not off to one side. If that's the case, then another brand/model of mounts should be considered if they can't be remedied by adjusting the sideplates.

What sort of material do people normally use for scope shims? Tin foil? Paper? Chocks of wood?

(I've just re-read Airgunnut's piece of advice and spotted this :

.......... shims of 35mm film negative or folded tin foil.

I knew I'd heard the idea of using tin foil somewhere.  ::)

IIRC, your new rifle doesn't have a front barrel (sometimes called an 8 ) clamp, so there's no option for you to check/adjust that unfortunately.

I have no idea what you're talking about, Gambo. What's an 8 clamp? What is it used for? How would adjusting it affect zero?

....... it's been over 5 years since I last scoped a rifle .....

It feels like I've been working on this one for five years already!

Great advice from you guys, as usual.

Many thanks.

I'm not a tinkerer and don't like to fix what isn't broken so I'm going to leave my scope as it is (might try Airgunnut's "left, down, right, up" trick with it in situ) for now. But I feel better equipped to deal with issues if I do have to remove the scope for any reason in the future.
..........so I packed up and went to the pub.

Offline airgunnut

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #533 on: October 06, 2017, 08:26:39 AM »

I would centralise the scope (set turrets to the middle)

How do I know which position is the central one? My turrets spin and spin and spin.............

Do I find the first end point, spin and count the turns until I find the second and then spin back for half the number of turns?


yes ;D
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Offline Gambo

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #534 on: October 06, 2017, 04:28:19 PM »
I would advise against using tin foil, as I've done that in the past and for some reason it discoloured the black anodising of the scope.  :'( :( >:(
Deffo use 35mm film negative instead. About 4-5 strips usually does the trick. ;)


In addition to what Uggy said about the cardboard box V technique, another option is adjust the turrets so the crosshairs remain on a fixed spot on a wall when the scope is spun/rotated in the V's as it is looked through. If the crosshair remains on the same point of aim, then you know the erector tube (no sniggering at the back) is perfectly central within the scope's out body tube, if it moves about in an arc as the scope is rotated, then it isn't central.

The technique I use to determine if the mounts cant over to one side or the other is.......before fitting the scope, fit one mount on the rail with the clamping foot on one side (either left or right, makes no difference), and then fit the other mount right next to it, but this time with the clamping foot on the opposite side. Doing that will then highlight if the mounts tilt to one side slightly as the cradles won't perfectly align with each other. Make sense? ???

If the mounts are found to tilt, then turning the clamping foot upside down may alleviate, or worsen, the problem. If it's the latter, then shims can be used between the mount jaw and scope rail........or another brand of more suitable mounts can be sought.

Taking your time to ensure the scope is PERFECTLY above, and in line with, the barrel will pay dividends with achieving long range accuracy, so that 'cross-over' is totally eliminated.

I'm absolutely pedantic/fanatical/obsessive about mounting my scopes 'cock-on', not only with what I've said above, but also making sure the vertical crosshair then perfectly dissects the absolute centre of the muzzle when viewing through the scoped rifle into a mirror (after taking the proper safety precautions first, obviously). Plumb lines, spirit levels and straight edges are all brought into play to make sure everything is aligned 100% correctly. It can be frustrating, but it's well worth it in my experience. ;)


The 8 clamp is often found at the front of the cylinder on rifles which don't have detachable buddy bottles. It is basically a support for the barrel, and is shaped like a figure 8 when viewed from the front.



« Last Edit: October 06, 2017, 04:46:55 PM by Gambo »

Offline IceBlerk

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #535 on: October 09, 2017, 09:33:01 AM »
......adjust the turrets so the crosshairs remain on a fixed spot on a wall when the scope is spun/rotated in the V's as it is looked through. If the crosshair remains on the same point of aim, then you know the erector tube (no sniggering at the back) is perfectly central within the scope's out body tube, if it moves about in an arc as the scope is rotated, then it isn't central.

An excellent little tip. Thanks.

The technique I use to determine if the mounts cant over to one side or the other is.......before fitting the scope, fit one mount on the rail with the clamping foot on one side (either left or right, makes no difference), and then fit the other mount right next to it, but this time with the clamping foot on the opposite side. Doing that will then highlight if the mounts tilt to one side slightly as the cradles won't perfectly align with each other. Make sense? ???

Yep, makes sense. Thanks again.

.......... making sure the vertical crosshair then perfectly dissects the absolute centre of the muzzle when viewing through the scoped rifle into a mirror (after taking the proper safety precautions first, obviously).

The tips are coming thick and fast!! Ta.

The 8 clamp is often found at the front of the cylinder on rifles which don't have detachable buddy bottles. It is basically a support for the barrel, and is shaped like a figure 8 when viewed from the front.

And I've learnt something new yet again.  :)

I've realised that it's just over a year since I bought my Terrus. In that year I have learnt sooooooo much and had a great time wandering The Planet picking up tips and tricks along the way.

I also know that I still have a huge amount to learn and a lot of room for improvement in my ability.

What started as a tentative try out of target shooting has almost become an obsession with sessions at the range and ratting. And I'm hoping to extend that to taking on those vicious bunnies. Onwards and upwards.

Kudos and thanks to all the inhabitants of The Planet.
..........so I packed up and went to the pub.

Offline IceBlerk

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #536 on: October 09, 2017, 03:14:53 PM »
I forgot to mention that I shot a few over the chronograph the other night.

Consistently 555 ft/sec which equates to 10.03 ftlbs.

This is at maximum power.

Now, the book says it should be just below 12 ftlbs on maximum power, 10 ftlbs on medium power and 6 ftlbs on low.

I'm not sure what, if anything, should/can be done about the power level.

Bearing in mind that I'm ratting and plinking (and may move onto bunnies too), do I need more than 10 ftlbs?
..........so I packed up and went to the pub.

Offline Gambo

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #537 on: October 09, 2017, 04:37:16 PM »
Are you taking about the new Brocock there Blerkster?

If so, what pellets are being used when obtaining those velocity figures?


Strictly speaking, 10ftlbs is adequate to dispatch bunnies humanly, as long as pellet placement is correct, and the ranges not stretched too far.

However, it's always nice to have as much power as the law allows just to have that extra edge if it becomes needed, with more knockdown power, a flatter trajectory, and to help buck the wind better.

If your allowed it, then why not have it.........after all, you don't go into a pub and ask for a pint of beer, only to be served and expected to accept a glass that is only partially full, do ya? ???

Offline IceBlerk

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #538 on: October 10, 2017, 07:47:04 AM »
Are you taking about the new Brocock there Blerkster?

I am.

If so, what pellets are being used when obtaining those velocity figures?

Daystate Kaiser pellets. 14.66 gr.

...... it's always nice to have as much power as the law allows just to have that extra edge if it becomes needed, with more knockdown power, a flatter trajectory, and to help buck the wind better.

Indeed.

If your allowed it, then why not have it.........after all, you don't go into a pub and ask for a pint of beer, only to be served and expected to accept a glass that is only partially full, do ya? ???

An excellent analogy.

I can feel a trip to the dealer coming on. And that's a pain because he's not local and I'll end up being without my rifle for some days.

I might see if I can arrange for it to be dealt with while I'm next on holiday.
..........so I packed up and went to the pub.

Offline Baggawind

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Re: Blerk's Progress
« Reply #539 on: October 10, 2017, 12:05:12 PM »
If you take it back be prepared for a long wait. You,re dealing with Daystate here and if my experience with the Compatto is anything to go by you,ll be without your rifle for two or three weeks  >:(